What Does “Black Tie Optional” Dress Code Mean For Men?

So you just received a black tie optional invitation for a formal event. Maybe you are a wedding guest at a friend’s New Year’s Eve wedding, or perhaps you are attending a formal corporate event or a charity event. What do the formal dress codes mean?

Don’t panic. Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo is going to guide you through traditional etiquette for a formal event and even share acceptable trends that we are seeing in the Philadelphia region.

What is a Black Tie Attire Event

A black tie event is considered one of the most formal of events. Traditionally, a black tie optional attire dress code requires you to wear a tuxedo. Usually a dark jacket with satin on the lapel. The jacket does not have to be black. It can be a darker color like navy or dark grey.

In summer months, you can also consider an ivory jacket with a black lapel. 

ivory jacket for a summer black tie optional event

We often only recommend white jackets during summer months and in tropical regions, but trends we have been seeing lately have relaxed the true traditional etiquette of colors. We will dive deeper into different color options and trends that we have been seeing a bit later.

Do you really have to wear an actual ‘black tie’? Not really, but we’ll discuss the long tie and bow tie issues in more detail later in our blog.

Does ‘Optional’ Really Mean Optional?

The invitation says black tie optional dress code, so do I have to wear a tuxedo? Several years ago, we had a customer come into our store with a black tie optional wedding invitation in hand. His humorous comment to us was, “You will be a fool if you show up without a tuxedo on, you’ll be the only one!” While his comment made us chuckle, it is only partially true. 

We do believe it’s always better to be smartly dressed. It is not common to stick out at an event in a bad way when you are dressed better than others. So wearing a nice fitted, classic tuxedo never makes you look bad!

Some guests choose to forego the tuxedo and just wear a dark suit. Why do they do this? Reasons typically include that they want to save the expense of renting a tuxedo or they are not comfortable wearing something that formal. While this is understandable and acceptable, the optional part does not mean you can go casual.  The casual dress code is completely different and inappropriate in this situation.

Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo has over 61 different styles of tuxedos and suits available for rent. We have full formal attire for you that will not break the bank. If you are a guest of the wedding, you don’t need to go overboard. No need to rent a Michael Kors tuxedo. We’ll help you find the appropriate attire in the budget you need.

Black Tie Requested

“Requested” is a step up from the optional event. This is a more direct way of saying you don’t have to wear a tuxedo, but it would be appreciated. Women are expected to be in floor-length dresses or an elegant pantsuit.

If the invitation indicates that it is a black tie dress code, whether optional or requested, then etiquette is that you wear a tuxedo. We recommend not straying from that request out of the respect for the individuals making the request and to stick with tradition.

Tuxedo Trends and Traditions

So let’s start with tradition. The most traditional look is a black or dark tuxedo jacket with a black satin bow tie, vest, matching tuxedo pants and patent leather shoes.

Another long-time tradition is wearing a velvet tuxedo jacket. Although we don’t see many velvet tuxedo jackets at formal events, it is an option that will allow you to stay with tradition and stand out in a classy way.

You do have the option of wearing a cummerbund instead of a vest however, trend-wise, we’ve seen far more vests than cummerbunds. We personally like vests because you can match your tuxedo jacket with the same exact fabric and color with the vest, giving it a clean and cohesive look.

As an example, if you wear our Ike Behar Charcoal gray tuxedo, you can wear the matching charcoal gray vest.

Ike Behar Charcoal Gray Notch Lapel
Ike Behar Charcoal Gray Notch Lapel

We love tradition, however with so many different color tuxedos available for rent now, we have seen very varied looks and trends. Navy and cobalt blue have been very popular for over five years now. Varying shades of gray have also been very popular for events. We have very light gray tuxedos all the way to gray tuxedos that are so dark that they almost look black.

Tuxedo Accessories

While you can’t really go wrong with a black satin bow tie, we have a few ideas for you. If you are attending the event with someone, you can certainly wear a bow or long tie that matches the color of her dress (which calls for a floor-length gown in black-tie dress code or women). Further, you can accent the color with a pocket square that matches the bow tie color as well. This is a really nice way to tie the couple together and still look formal.

Of course, we prefer bow ties, however, we have seen people wear both bow ties and long ties to black tie events. While long ties are not overly traditional for such events, it has become acceptable to wear them. Some men are just not comfortable in bow ties and prefer long ties. It is personal style and preference.

However, there is one practical reason we have seen when guys do not want to wear a bow tie. If they have a longer beard, you cannot even see the bow tie because the beard covers it. In this particular case, guys will choose a long tie and pocket square. 

A white dress shirt is advised, as are black patent leather shoes.

The Most Formal Dress Code – White Tie

The white tie dress code indicates that guests are high-caliber, royal, or have high social standing. If you are attending an a white tie event, at this level of formality there is no “optional”. 

White tie attire includes a black waistcoat (often known as a tailcoat or tails) with a white bow tie, white vest and white shirt are in order. Patent leather shoes are a must for this tuxedo and matching black tuxedo pants. We usually finish off the look with white and gold studs and cuff links and a white pocket square. 

Black Tuxedo with black tails and white tie formal
The most formal – White Tie Dress Code

If you want to stick to true tradition, white gloves and a top hat would be appropriate, but not necessary.

The event invitation will say White Tie dress code, full evening dress, or waistcoat / black tailcoat requested. Common events that require this type of attire are debutante balls, royal affairs, very formal weddings, or one of the better known events in the Philadelphia region is the annual Concert and Ball at the Academy of Music.

Every year many sponsors and attendees of the Academy Ball come to Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo to rent a very formal tuxedo for the event. This is a fine Philadelphia tradition that has been going on for over 163 years and is a benefit to maintain and restore the Academy of Music located at 240 S Broad Street in Philadelphia.

Women should wear a formal evening gown to white tie types of events.

Play It Safe

So if you are lucky enough to be invited to a black-tie wedding or other affair, your best bet is to stick with a black or navy tuxedo with satin black bow tie. 

With so many variations available today, stop by Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo and we will suggest just the right tuxedo and accessories at the right price. Do you have a question about black-tie attire? Or semi-formal dress code? Text our store telephone number and we will give you personal advice: 215-491-8500.

About the author: Franco Salerno is co-founder and co-owner of Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo, now in their twelfth year in business. In that time, he built the tuxedo department into a force rivaling big box stores by providing expertise, caring service, and beautiful, quality formal wear. Personally invested in every transaction, Mr. Salerno provides customers with the utmost trust and confidence, assuring their wedding or formal event attire will be perfect. A native of Philadelphia, he currently resides in Warrington, Bucks County with his wife and store co-founder/co-owner Wendy, and their two daughters for whom the store was named, Daria and Deanna.