Summary
- The three formal dress codes for men are white tie, black tie, and black tie optional
- White tie affairs are the most formal and require a coat with tails, white shirt, and white bow tie
- A black-tie event can be a wedding, holiday party, charity event, formal dinner, or other red carpet type affair
- An appropriate black tie outfit requires a tuxedo in dark colors with a bow tie
- Dressing for black tie optional includes either a full tuxedo or a three-piece suit
Have you ever received an invitation with the dress code of black tie optional? Did it cause you confusion immediately? Don’t panic. Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo is going to guide you through traditional etiquette for formal events and even share acceptable trends that we are seeing in the Philadelphia region.
Formal Dress Codes
- White Tie
- Black Tie
- Black Tie Optional
What do these mean? Do you really have to wear an actual ‘black tie’ or ‘white tie’?
For white tie, yes. For black tie, no. We will discuss the long tie and bow tie issues in more detail below.
What is a Black Tie Attire Event
A black tie event is considered one of the most formal of events. Traditionally, a black tie attire dress code requires you to wear a tuxedo. This is usually a dark jacket with satin lapels and a bow tie. The jacket does not have to be black, nor does the tie. It should be dark colors though, like navy, midnight blue, or charcoal grey.

In summer months, you can also consider an ivory jacket with a black lapel.

We often only recommend white jackets during summer months and in tropical regions, but trends we have been seeing lately have relaxed the true traditional etiquette of colors. We will dive deeper into different color options and trends that we have been seeing a bit later.
What Black Tie Optional Means
The invitation says black tie optional dress code, so do I have to wear a tuxedo?
Several years ago, we had a customer come into our store with a black tie optional wedding invitation in hand. His humorous comment to us was, “You will be a fool if you show up without a tuxedo on, you’ll be the only one!” While his comment made us chuckle, it is only partially true.
We do believe it’s always better to be smartly dressed. It is not common to stick out at an event in a bad way when you are dressed better than others. So wearing a nicely fitted, classic tuxedo never makes you look bad!
Some guests choose to forego the tuxedo and just wear a dark suit. Why do they do this? Reasons typically include:
- saving on the expense of renting a tuxedo
- being uncomfortable wearing something that formal
- assuming no one else will wear one/being over dressed
While this is understandable and acceptable, the optional part does not mean you can wear casual attire. The casual dress code is completely different and inappropriate in this situation.
Black Tie Wedding Attire “Requested”
“Requested” is a step up from the optional event. This is a more direct way of saying you don’t have to wear a tuxedo, but it would be appreciated. Women are expected to be in floor-length dresses or an elegant pantsuit.
If the invitation indicates that it is a Black Tie dress code, whether optional or requested, then etiquette is that you wear a tuxedo. We recommend not straying from that request out of the respect for the individuals making the request and to stick with tradition.

Tuxedo Trends and Traditions
So let’s start with tradition. The most traditional look is a black or dark tuxedo jacket with a black satin bow tie, vest, matching tuxedo trousers, and patent leather black shoes. Black tuxedos are your go-to for a formal evening occasion.
Another long-time tradition is wearing a velvet tuxedo jacket. Although we don’t see many velvet tuxedo jackets at formal events, it is an option that will allow you to stay with tradition and stand out in a classy way.
You do have the option of wearing a cummerbund instead of a vest however, trend-wise, we’ve seen far more vests than cummerbunds. We personally like vests because you can match your tuxedo jacket with the same exact fabric and color with the vest, giving it a clean and cohesive look.
As an example, if you wear our Ike Behar Charcoal gray tuxedo, you can wear the matching charcoal gray vest.

We love tradition, however with so many different color tuxedos available for rent now, we have seen very varied looks and trends. Our navy blue tuxedo collection includes a jacket with black peak lapel and one with a navy satin lapel. Cobalt blue has also been popular for years. Varying shades of gray are perfect options for black-tie affairs. We have very light gray tuxedos all the way to ones that are so dark that they almost look black.
Tuxedo Accessories
The right accessories can be a game changer. While you can’t really go wrong with a black satin bow tie, we have a few different ideas for you.
If you are attending the event with someone, you can certainly wear a bow or long tie that matches the color of her dress (which requires a floor-length gown in black-tie wedding dress codes for women). If she is wearing a black dress, you can choose a color that matches the season (light colors for spring, jewel tones in autumn, holiday colors, floral patterns, etc.). Further, you can accent the color with a pocket square that matches the bow tie color This is a really nice way to tie the couple together and still look formal.


Of course, we prefer bow ties, however, we have seen people wear both bow ties and long ties to black tie events. While long ties are not overly traditional for such events, it has become acceptable to wear them.
Some men are just not comfortable in bow ties and prefer long ties. It is personal style and preference. If you are in a quality, well-fitted tuxedo, a long tie and pocket square will be acceptable and provide the right balance of formality.
However, there is one practical reason we have seen when guys do not want to wear a bow tie. If they have a longer beard, you cannot even see the bow tie because the beard covers it! In this particular case, guys will choose a long tie and pocket square.
A white dress shirt is advised, as are black patent leather shoes.

The Most Formal Dress Code – White Tie
The white tie dress code indicates that guests are high-caliber, royal, or have high social standing. If you are attending an a white tie event, at this level of formality there is no “optional”.
White tie attire includes a black waistcoat (often known as a tailcoat or tails) with a white bow tie, white vest and white shirt are in order. Patent leather shoes are a must for this tuxedo and matching black tuxedo pants. We usually finish off the look with white and gold studs and cuff links and a white pocket square.

If you want to stick to true tradition, white gloves and a top hat would be appropriate, but not necessary.
The event invitation will say White Tie dress code, full evening dress, or waistcoat / black tailcoat requested. Common events that require this type of attire are debutante balls, royal affairs, very formal weddings, or one of the better known events in the Philadelphia region is the annual Concert and Ball at the Academy of Music.
Every year many sponsors and attendees of the Academy Ball come to Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo to rent a very formal tuxedo for the event. This is a fine Philadelphia tradition that has been going on for over 163 years and is a benefit to maintain and restore the Academy of Music located at 240 S Broad Street in Philadelphia.
Women should wear a formal evening gown to white tie types of events.
Play It Safe
So if you are lucky enough to be invited to a black-tie wedding or other affair, your best bet is the classic choice of a black or navy tuxedo with satin black bow tie. Women should wear floor length gowns in a formal fabric, such as satin, jacquard, or Mikado.
If you are still against wearing a tuxedo but do not want to be insulting to your host, wear a more formal suit, three-piece for sure (including the matching vest), in a dark color. A black suit with a bow tie and pocket square is your best option. A three-piece dark gray suit is also appropriate for any black tie optional event, including a formal wedding celebration. Please consider honoring the wishes of the happy couple if their wedding invite requests the wedding guests wear black tie attire.
Creative Black Tie Events
Darianna Bridal & Tuxedo has dressed, thousands of guests for many different themed wedding celebrations. Some formal affairs required black tie looks for a Great Gatsby theme, medieval Gothic castle locations, grand Estates, historic museums, and private clubs. We’ve had winter wedding, black-tie optional events where the guest count was small, but a formal dress code was requested at exclusive clubs and restaurants.
We have also dressed parties for fun holiday themes like New Year’s Eve, Halloween and Valentine’s Day, and for overseas destinations in the Italian Alps. The creativity our couples have is something we love to be part of!
One of our couples chose socks in vibrant colors for their wedding party instead of the traditional black socks. This was a nod to a sports team they were fans of. Accessories can be statement pieces, adding modern twists and personal touches to a black-tie look.
More On Formal Events
Formal events are a great opportunity to dress your best and make amazing memories. It’s not often you get to dress like this, your prom perhaps, or when you were married. As time goes on and trends change, the modern black-tie dress code never goes out of style. And when you dress like this, you feel great because you look so good.
With so many variations available today, stop by Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo and we will suggest just the right tuxedo and accessories at the right price.
Do you have a question about black-tie attire? Or semi-formal dress code? Text our store telephone number and we will give you personal advice: 215-491-8500.
About the author: Franco Salerno is co-founder and co-owner of Darianna® Bridal & Tuxedo, now in their 13th year in business. In that time, he built the tuxedo department into a force rivaling big box stores by providing expertise, caring service, and beautiful, quality formal wear. Personally invested in every transaction, Mr. Salerno provides customers with the utmost trust and confidence, assuring their wedding or formal event attire will be perfect. A native of Philadelphia, he currently resides in Warrington, Bucks County with his wife and store co-founder/co-owner Wendy, and their two daughters for whom the store was named, Daria and Deanna.